Mole coloradito: the mole of Día de Muertos

Mole coloradito is one of the seven classic moles in Oaxaca. After mole negro, I'd say it's Oaxaca's most popular mole. It is tradition that when one cooks mole during this time, the first serving goes to the altar, along with the favorite foods our loved ones who are no longer with us enjoyed.

Mole coloradito is usually eaten for breakfast, sometimes in enmoladas with a fried egg on top, or with shredded chicken, garnished with parsley, queso fresco, and onion. Many tamales are also eaten during this time of year. During our Día de Muertos tour, we offer a cooking class where we make tamales with mole coloradito, Oaxaca-style, wrapped in banana leaf.

During our ten-day tour, we taste many different mole coloraditos from market vendors and restaurants. But there's nothing more special than visiting our dear friend Doña Rafaela, who lives about forty minutes away from the cooking school, towards the mountains.

For the last twenty five years, we've spent November 2nd with her and her family. My mom first met her when my dad used to grow tomatoes with her husband, Jesús and she invited my mom to spend this special day with her. Since then, it is a Seasons tradition to visit them on November 2nd, the main day of Muertos celebrations.

Every year, Doña Rafaela makes an amazing mole coloradito. She cooks it for two days: one full day just to cook the dried chiles (guajillo and ancho) and the next day she adds the rest of the ingredients, toasting, grinding, layering the flavors slowly. She usually adds heirloom apples that grow behind her home, as well as ginger. These aren't typical in mole coloradito, but she adds them for flavor and sweetness. The apple and ginger help with digestion. By November 2nd, the mole has deepened into something special and flavorful.

At her table, the mole is at the center. Next to it handmade tortillas are being pressed and cooked on the comal. It's a special moment bringing everyone on the tour to taste this mole the look on their faces when they understand what two days of cooking feels like in a single bite. Their generosity is so characteristic of Oaxacan hospitality. We're always greeted with hugs, beer, mezcal and the live band and comparsa who've been playing all night, going house to house. The dancers have these outrageous costumes, and everyone is dancing. This is what Día de Muertos looks, sounds and tastes like!

I cannot wait to go back and see Doña Rafaela and Don Jesús… and bring you with me to experience this festivity.

Con cariño,
Kaelin